Monday, 1 July 2013

Striped jersey dress with bias panels.





This dress was inspired in part by Zoe from sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk blogging about her love of Breton tops and what’s not to love? I am a big fan of yellow and they look great together. The fabric is available for £6m from Fabrics Galore in Battersea, London and I used some white jersey from my stash as a lining. I used a lining to increase the opacity of the stripy fabric and add weight to stop the jersey clinging and showing every lump and bump. I also was aware that having panels at different angels might affect the stretch and could result in some panels looking either tighter or sagging more than others, so the lining was cute in one piece to add stability.

I drew the pattern for a simple t-shirt dress using Winifred Aldridge’s “Pattern cutting for women's wear” (I Know go on and on about this book). The pattern is from the flat cutting section- where the pattern pieces are flat and rely on the body to add shape as an alternative to darts and shaping. The pattern is cut out slightly smaller than your measurements to allow the fabric to stretch and give a close fit. Alternatively you could start with a pattern such Kwik sew K3561 or Simplicity 2054.

I cut my lining fabric first and basted it together to check the fit, which was fine. I traced a copy of the pattern and drew two diagonal lines across it; from under the bust to the hip and from the hip towards the hemline on both the front and back sections of the pattern. The lines are drawn in exactly the same place on the front on the back to ensure that the seams meet neatly at the sides. I marked accurately the direction I wanted the stripes to go on each pattern piece in a similar fashion to a grain line. I then cut along the two lines creating three pattern pieces for both the front and back and added a seam allowance to each cut edge.