Friday, 13 July 2012

Padded envelope clutch bag tutorial








Tutorial


You will need: 


1 Meter tie silk
1/2 meter 4mm wadding
matching thread
zipper (I used a jean zipper)
magnetic clasp/ metal popper
60cm of 7cm wide bias binding cut from the bag fabric
10cm cotton tape

You can get the free pattern here (Printed on A3)

I have made a several of these envelope clutches as I love them as evening bags. I made this one for a friend and added a little shoulder strap, which can be tucked inside when not in use. I had some tie silk and had been planning on using it to make this bag for a while as it feels a bit special. I used it as the outer fabric, lining and strap. I cut carefully to matching the stripes on the outer fabric and the lining.

Sunday, 1 July 2012

Fitted jacket- pattern drafting results


Here is the result from my first attempt at pattern cutting. I previously posted the toile of this jacket, made using Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern cutting for women's wear. I have been working on this jacket sporadically as having no instructions I took time to think about each step, although I made up the construction steps as I went along. Not necessarily the best plan but I quite liked the challenge adapting the pattern to get the jacket just as I wanted it. I am pretty sure tailoring isn't the place to start and the end result isn't perfesct, but a pretty good start.

The outer fabric is a navy wool and it is lined with a light patterned cotton. Most linings available seem to be cheap and shiny man-made fabrics that I am not keen to have against my skin. I find it confusing that no-one seems to have come up with something a bit nice- Why would you take the time to make my own clothing and ruin it with a sweaty lining.

I had the most trouble attaching the sleeves and the lining at the hem. I also did quiet a few alterations on the final fabric (taking in the darts and reducing the sleeve-cap ease) as the light cotton I used for the toile wasn't really suitable for testing the structured shape of a jacket- next time I will use a stiffer calico. The end product has some slight rippling between the front darts and the hem, despite my best effort to press them out and the sleeves are shorter than I 'd like.

I realised if I am going to continue pattern drafting I needed a sewing bible. I settled on Vogue Sewing- revised an updated from the original 1970's version and it is just what I need, with instructions on everything from  fabric selecting, sewing techniques and most usefully detailed instructions on adapting patterns and fitting.


A few more pics..


Close up
Lapel